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Tag your pictures in social media with dropsdesign so we can see them! We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern DROPS for measurements and calculations. Are you having trouble following the pattern?
See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new. Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you. See 6 relevant videos here. Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this up or down to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern.
If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests. The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another. All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups from A to F according to thickness and knitting tension — group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest.
This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group.
It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch. Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount in your size and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Most skeins are 50g some are 25g or g. If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Click here to see our yarn converter. The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches. Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual. The total width of the garment from wrist-to-wrist will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter.
The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes. Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. If it says to work 5 repeats of A. If it says to work 2 repeats of A. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left. When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right. When working in the round , every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row. The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches equivalent to the height of the following stitch , this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern. This means you work A. The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A. Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with.
The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch. The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
To achieve an even increase or decrease you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete. Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions.
This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes. Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end.
Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side for sewing and work the front and back pieces separately. Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group. It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve. Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
All yarns will have excess fibres from production that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns ie hairier yarns have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding. Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres.
When the garment is finished before you wash it shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length. The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: g. This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. Janicka Salas I love your patterns and have been crocheting for many years but I can not for the life of me figure out what you meant when you get to the bond off section of the bottoms please help.
Am I to decrease on both sides start and end of the rows? Efi Tsalikoglou Thank you again for this beautiful pattern! Can you please tell me how to attach the sides? It doesn't say and at the photo it seems that you just put a ribbon. Is that correct or is there another way? I hope there is Thank you in advance.
Tashi Hello there : Could you tell me how to do the 'binding off bit' during the bikini bottoms. Please could you explain : Thank you. Vivian :- Jenna